= Car audio setup for streaming and light music production / mixing =

So I would like to use my car audio equipment to stream music as well as for some light music production and mixing

I would like to preface this by saying I know I that car audio will not be as good in a home setting, and will obviously not be as good as studio monitors, but I’m on a college budget and my car was recently hit so I would like to convert my audio system to my home and work with what I have. So please refrain from comments telling me to just buy studio monitors, and instead give me advice on how to make the best of my setup

I have the setup working already. A kenwood double din head unit, 4 6in Rockford fosgate 2 way speakers, and 2 10 in subs. I have 2 PC power supplies powering it all. The door speakers are just mounted in shoe boxes temporarily until I build real enclosures

My questions. How large should I build the enclosures and should make a sealed or ported box? Should I use 2 speakers only or all 4? I don’t believe that 4 would increase the volume much in this setting and may hurt quality if placed poorly? Or if 4 should I create 2 large enclosures that hold 2 each with a baffle in between them? If I set my head unit eq to be fully flat, would that theoretically replicate the “true” sound that is sought after from studio monitors ? And finally should I use a usb output or 3.5mm aux to connect my computer to the head unit for quality

Anyone who has insight on any of this would be greatly appreciated

As far as I know Rockford does not publish the t/s parameters for their speakers. If you can find them then use a program like WinISD to design your box. If not then I would put them in the biggest sealed box that you can make work since car speakers are designed for near infinite baffle applications. I made a boom box with my old stock car speakers and powered it with a big 12v power supply that fed power to a cheap stereo (see here). You should be able to find the specs for the subwoofer and use WinISD to design probably a ported box. this is a very doable project and should sound good enough for some casual jamming

Thanks for the insight! Right now even with the speakers in average sized shoe boxes, it already sounds pretty good. I can only imagine that in a proper enclosure it will sound even better. I’ve never heard of that program so I will do some research on it and try and find out the specification of my speakers

Do you have a power cap? i had a sort of like this setup years ago and the speakersthe PSU rather fast due to massive current spikes

for Input you need to test for yourself if the DAC in your pc or headunit is better and lower latency when producing music

definetly keep at it, i bought studio speakers and i stillat music
If you're setting it up for a studio setup why not just make a portable setup and use your car as a second reference like everyone else does? Nowadays you need a mono source too so how would you simulate that to check the bass mix? The way your mix sounds in a car is one reference everyone always uses apart from their studio setups anyway

I always used a little diy sub I made paired with also a diy Amp that could power the sub and mains wired or battery powered. I have a series of tubes I used for more or less bass and basically made my own htib style things that ran on literally a battery bank used for a obscure machine that's very common lol. It's just a 12 volt mendella thing that's a box with a cable and a standard DC tube connector

The monitors I used were the is kef 1001s since they were extremely over engineered for what they were and solid metal and could be used anywhere or even quickly attached to a wall easily using these 2x4 L brackets and blue tac. The sub I made was a bazooka style sub so I could swap tunings on the fly for more or less bass etc and the 1001s are single point 2 ways made of solid metal that have a hidden recessed waveguide making them sound as large as the baffle is tall

They were one of the original waveguide prototypes created as a scaled down version of the Blade for prototyping. They sold their prototypes as the Pico Forte 3s and the Pico Forte 1s. You'd want the SE EDT of the latter and the og version of the 1st. If you think this is confusing I can show you one picture of 5 different iterations what's supposed to be the same speaker but since the speaker is literally cited and represents two entire generations in a row of kef technology of course its gonna have a ton of curiosities hidden inside. For instance the sub they made for it is the basis for meta tech their new tweeter since it uses its rear waves to counter balance resulting in a so called sub (its really just a LF section that was used to prototype the last of the classic gen Uni Qs and was matched with the final XQ series, then we passed forward to a more powerful version of a "sub" (with no built in sub controls or components at all) with a single driver that uses two tuned diaphragms to mathematically cancel force resulting in the only force canceled "sub" in existence with only one driver

And the pace of development in stealth mode was so rapid the successors had nothing published and played way outside of the original parameters, the HTB2 instance can be played straight using an external crossover from 350hz down to about 28hz while being thinner than the diameter of its diaphragms which manage to be back to back while using its own sealed air and rear vented active driver to shield either outer diaphragm from any reflection or ring distortion

All this used to be a mystery to me then it made more and more sense as time went by and you saw the same tech that was prototyped in the series become integrated into their current gen. Enough time passed that they just openly admit what it is now even in interviews and marketing of what is the basis of their new tech

They only added this a year ago

httpsi.imgur.com/WBlolWM.jpeg and while parts to the LS50s are no longer in production you can still buy the driver to the prototype series since it's the only prototype driver they have with everything including the last tweeter that topped off at 55khz +-3db
I could fit my setup in my back pack with a sub that can play down to 40hz "it's literally a tunable bazooka style sub with a back attachment and 2 lengths of ports

My preference is consistency clarity and a smooth response and they're the smallest 2 way single points ever made and invincible. They're sealed but can be crossed over at 120hz, I'd cross mine at 300hz since I have a custom passive sub that works more like a shared LF section that can play clean from 300 down to 40 before rolling off

You can power it with your choice of any 2.1 Amp you can find pc board versions on the web if you you're into diy

My criteria was it'd have to fit in a backpack be consistent with vocals and phase coherence and those are the most compact 2 ways ever that sound right between old kef that's better for rock and anything with real instruments including actual guitar vs modern kef that is voiced more for edm style stuff. It's like the difference between the LS50s which were tuned over years to sound just like the LS3 5as recognized as the most accurate vocal monitors ever made versus the Metas which are voices just like standard kef r series

They especially sound more like r series since they aren't tuned to sound accurate to human ears since the LS50s are based on the LS3 5as and were also tuned by ear

The R series and the new Metas are (no offense to anyone but cmon they literally made the same box already and sold the last LS50 intervals as the Ltdwith serial numbers that count down to 1000

The Metas then ended up using the same exact tuning as the r series but still have the same ls50 black edition upgraded box aesthetics but sound nothing like the LS50s or the LS3 5as and weren't there wasn't even close to an attempt
Side by side the Metas sound the same from about 300hz on down but are voiced exactly like generic r series KEFs, I. E. Flat which is hardly an accomplish for kef who can do that as easily via their proprietary computer modeling software by mere accident

The LS50s were tuned carefully using the 1001 gen 1 (not gen 2) and then the 3001 SEs (not 3001s or the earlier silver SEs)
The 1001s and 3001SEs were over engineered af and just the build quality makes that obvious. Part by part they're worth at least 5x more than the LS50s which took the final voicing of the 3001SEs which have the same exact crossover point at 2.2khz and port tuning at 52hz)
They're both made out of way too many pieces of aeronautics grade materials so expensive they didn't even recycle the solid metal custom binding posts since after the 300X/SE served their role they liquidated them and all the parts were too expensive to continue to make

The 1001 OGs were designed with a waveguide and a massive scaled down blade style driver while the 1001ses ended up using the standard home theater drivers with a single magnet. The OG center to the 1001s can be used to make a revel

Kef 1001 vs 1001.2, classic 1001s were much better httpsimgur.com/gallery/nhDk4Nv
The 3001SE primes are excellent monitors including their virtually invincible build, lab grade binding posts for quick connect without even the need for banana plugs with the solid metal binding posts with the bullet clips so no need for twisting to lock even twist wire. They are a bit too large to fit as a portable but I still use them to represent modern edm and imaging since they have the same holography as more recent kef speakers but the same life like voicing as the LS50s. They also play way down and slope down to 40 in room with their box speaker tuning of 2.2khz and 52hz port boost which was transfered over one to one to the LS50s which allowed for a bigger box so lower bass

There are several clues that can be seen from the outside They're surprisingly weird but it all makes sense once you grab a set of LS50s. httpsimgur.com/a/NX51QlF
Where you can do this
The center to the 3001SEs cast a summed stereo sound stage that sound identical to the custom center which was also designed entire from scratch. They didn't even recycle any of the drivers as everyone always does otherwise for their centers

I dunno how into diy you are but they can be used as parts no one can make by hand too

The 3001SEs are further along and sound exactly like the LS50 except with a more exotic design so have more holography using the same rubber silicone mask waveguide baffle and like the LS50s can also be used in their sides (which is funny because once they were done prototyping they stopped making the custom center and did what you'd imagine anyone would do normally and just sold the main on its side as a center.) people still use an LS50 on its side as a center which works terribly, while the sealed custom 3 way 3001SEs centers sound are the best mono reference speaker which is what I use for mono reference for bass mixing. That can be adapted to a sub or a mono reference

Here's the portable tunable passive sub I made for the setup

And a 2.1 Amp using a Mendella battery pack. The shape made it portable enough I could just add the back section and its port to tune it down to 40hz, or keep it more compact and it slopes down toward 40hz. Since it can be played up to 200hz it also fills in as if the 1001 1st gens had the ability to play full range, while the single point design and continuous sealed consistent sound encompassed the core of 300-20k+ and the sub could simulate a ported or sealed sound. That and the Amp, a harddrive, midi controllers all fit in my back pack. So I could set up on a random room with no electricity if I wanted to. The iPhone and galaxy could also be kept charged via USB back up batteries

I know a lot of musicians make their own monitors to suit their needs and that worked great for noise pop which requires 3D imaging

Tldr: there's a misconception just like "studio quality" that music producers don't like hi fi, it's not that, it's that we see everything as an instrument/tool and your monitors have to simulate what everyone else might hear. Having a back pack that could simulate a revel speaker, kef single point stereo or surrounds and a sub that can simulate various tunings ported or sealed worked great. I'm rebuilding it all now actually and upgrading.