= Crossposting from r/antiques. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement switch for this lamp? I’m located in the Tristate area of the US. TIA! =

 Switch broken on my grandma’s Temde Leutchen lamp. Local repair guy said it was not worth fixing because there are so many bulbs and wires. But I can’t bear to throw it away, especially when the light worked fine up until the switch became *completely* unclickable! Any ideas of where/how to fix it? 

Your local repair guy is an. And I don't mean that nicely

I've rebuilt switches like that many times

Since there's only one wire going in/coming out, it is a
*single-pole push-button canopy switch*. Embossed on the back/bottom should be something like 240V/2A or something similar

The switch functions like a push button on an ink pen. When you push down, a toothed gear is forced to rotate, opening and closing the circuit. The spring disengages the gear from the teeth of the button that forces it to rotate

You can open the switch by gently bending the metal band on each side of the switch until its ends no long grasp the back of the switch. The switch opens like a little lidded box. It also may spring apart, too

Inside you'll find the two ends of the wire soldered to two curved metal strips being held by little guides. Centered in them will be a circular gear similar to what you'd find if you disassembled an ink pen. Inside the cap (or the cap itself) will be a cylinder with teeth that fit into the top of the gear. Between the two you'll find a spring

What's likely happened is that the teeth on either gear have broken. When I find this, I just swap thefrom another push-button switch into the switch housing attached to the lamp

If the spring is the problem, you can source another spring at most hardware stores. It is a compression spring

What's unique to that switch is the. I found several replacement switches online that might provide me the parts I would need to rebuild that switch. The one I chose here could even outright replace your defective switch, if you used the original threaded retaining ring instead of the plastic one that comes with that example

Since I don't have dimensions of either your original switch, nor the inline housing in which itI can't say the one I used as an example would solve your problem, eliminating the need for you to rebuild the existing switch

You can replace that style of switch with a rotating on/off switch or a toggle switch. Most have metal threads and mount to the holder with the same style of threaded ring. Most are compact enough they would fit inside the switch holder. I would only do this if you cannot find anotherswitch that looks like yours or a donor you can use to rebuild the one already installed

You'll want to take the threaded ring with you when you go to source a replacement switch or even a donor switch for the parts. You'll also want to write down what voltage/amperage is listed on the bottom of that switch in order that the replacement can handle the current

If you're able to source an exact replacement, you may still need to disassemble the old switch to expose the ends of the wires in order to properly install the new switch

There are replacement switch modules that would replace the inline holder and the faulty switch. I figure you wouldn't want to do that as it might affect the value of the lamp. You can even buy replacement power cords with the switch built into them, and replace the cord and the switch together. Again this might affect the value of the lamp negatively

I know this is a rather detailed explanation. If I was able to inspect the lamp switch myself, I could just swap the parts or source an exact replacement

Thank you for this very informative explanation! Here are some pictures: httpsimgur.com/a/yWks6AG
It is 250V/2A. Tragically, I opened the switch box before I saw your comment, and what I think was a gear crumbled in my hands… and then I made the mistake of throwing all the little pieces from the switch box in the trash (and the trash was emptied and taken away a few hours ago)! 
I measured the dimensions of what I have. If the switch were to fit between the twoholes in the bottom of the casing, it would be 220mm in length and 150mm in width. Do you think this is enough information in my search for a replacement?
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